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John DeMont (jdemont@herald.ca) Published: Sep 11, 2020, The Chronical Herald

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Food blogger Lindsay Wickstrom prefers the "ice cream cone" method when indulging in a donair. The author of the Book of Donair is seen in Halifax Thursday, Sept. 10, 2020. - Tim Krochak

Thursday, lunchtime. Sitting on a bleacher at the northwest corner of the Halifax Common, Lindsay Wickstrom -- with a certain reverence for a movement she has performed hundreds of times before — pares back her tinfoil wrapper.

There are multiple ways to eat Halifax's official dish, the donair: with the sauce on the side, open-faced with knife and fork, or just by pulling out the strips of meat with your fingers.

"The traditional way is to peel back the foil and eat it like an ice-cream cone," the author of the newly published Book of Donair: Everything You Wanted to Know About the Halifax Food that became Canada's favourite kebab, said, doing just that to an offering from nearby Tony's Donair.

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